Hints and Tips

Is Cairo and Egypt safe? Well, there is no absolute answer to that; as safe as your own country if not more. The amount of crime, violent or otherwise, is negligible compared with most other western countries. Crimes of passion are another thing and the tales of murderous wives, revengeful jilted lovers, patricide, matricide and fratricide make for a fascinating read. Most visitors and residents would agree that Egyptian cities and towns are some of the world's safest places in which pedestrians can walk abroad, anywhere, at any hour of the day or night. Unfortunately the hassle factor often means that this isn't quite the case for an unaccompanied foreign female.

What's the dress code?

Away from the Sinai and Red Sea beaches, Egyptians are quite conservative about dress. Wearing shorts and a tight T-shirt on the street is, in some people's eyes, confirmation of the worst views held of western women. Generally, if you are alone or with other women, the amount of harassment you will receive is directly related to how you dress: the more shin exposed the greater the attention. If the weather is hot, you can still dress comfortably by wearing baggy T-shirts and loose cotton trousers or long skirts. As with anywhere take your cue from your surroundings; if you are in a rural area and women are dressing conservatively, do the same, but if you are in a nightclub full of skimpily clad upper class Egyptian girls, you will feel comfortable and safe wearing the same. And the same can be said for the guys; dressing prudently is just as much a male issue. In places less used to tourists, the sight of a man in shorts is considered offensive, while in Cairo, you'll be looked at like someone who has forgotten to put his trousers on. Count the number of Egyptian males in shorts.

Is there much theft?

Theft never used to be a problem in Egypt but it seems to be becoming more so, and it comes in many forms from simple pick-pocketing to more elaborate scams. The only advice we can give is to be vigilant, be observant of your surroundings and keep a close guard of your valuables. Do not carry too much cash with you and do not wear lots of expensive jewellery. When you are using public transport keep a tight hold of your pockets. When you are staying in a hotel do not leave valuables in your room (and even avoid the safety deposit boxes). And when you are entering a tourist destination avoid the ticket, taxi and hotel touts. A simple but stern 'no, thank you' is sufficient; please contain your frustration and anger.

What about the heat?

The main concern in Egypt for most of the year is the heat. Drink plenty of fluids to prevent dehydration and do not rely on feeling thirsty to indicate when you should drink. Not needing to urinate or voiding small amounts of very dark yellow urine is a danger sign. Always carry a bottle of water with you on long trips. Excessive sweating can lead to loss of salt and muscle cramping. Salt tablets are not a good idea as a preventative, but adding salt to food can help. Tap water has been tested by the US Embassy and has been declared safe to drink; the strange taste is the chlorine which makes it a great antiseptic for washing fruit and vegetables. When you first arrive it is best to start with bottled mineral water and recommended local brands are Baraka and Siwa. Just make sure the seal is not broken when you buy a bottle.

Avoid sunburn by using sunscreen and wearing a hat, and protect your eyes with good quality sunglasses.

And the food?

It pays to be a bit careful about what you eat in Egypt to help avoid the stomach problems that commonly afflict foreigners. Vegetables and fruit should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Beware of ice cream that is sold in the street or anywhere it might have been melted and refrozen. Shellfish such as mussels, oysters and clams should be avoided as well as undercooked meat, particularly in the form of mince. Steaming does not make shellfish safe for eating. Busy restaurants (where food is not left for a long time), with clean vendors and an active clientele of locals and expatriates is a good indication of a clean and healthy eating establishment. Eat a good balanced diet including cooked eggs, lentils, beans, nuts, peeled fruit (avoid melons), rice and bread. It is advisable to maybe supplement your diet with vitamin and iron pills.

Can I drink alcohol?

We have made many references to buying a cold Stella after a long day of sightseeing but there are a few words of warning. While alcohol is haram (forbidden) in the eyes of many Muslims, it is tolerated by most, drunk by a fair few, and quite feely available throughout most of the country. That said, getting wasted is not a widespread national pastime and it is advisable not to go reeling around Egypt's streets, shouting and singing, if you want to avoid a night in a police cell.

What's the advice for gays and lesbians?

Homosexuality in Egypt is no more or less prevalent than elsewhere in the world but it is a whole lot more ambiguous than in the west. Men routinely hold hands, link arms, give each other big slobbery kisses on greeting but don't misread the signals; this is not gay behaviour, its just a local take on male bonding. A male having sex with another male does not consider himself gay if the partner is passive. Although there is no mention of homosexuality in the Egyptian penal code, the bottom line is that Egypt is a conservative society that condemns the activity but at the same time plenty of same sex intercourse goes on. There are no national support groups or gay information lines but you could try searching the web. The premier gay Egypt site is www.gayegypt.com.

Am I safe to take photographs?

Be careful when taking photographs of anything other than tourist sites. It is forbidden to photograph bridges, train stations, anything military, airports and any other public works. Egyptians are also sensitive about the negative aspects of their country. It is not uncommon for someone to yell at you when you are trying to take photos of things like a crowded bus, a dilapidated building or a donkey cart full of rubbish. It can sometimes be tricky taking photos of people, so it is always better to ask first. Exercise discretion and if you are questioned just act like a dumb tourist who should know better.

Are the roads safe?

Drive with much care and confidence but always be assertive. Be vigilant, always look around you and never gesticulate or express anger.

Driving in Cairo is a crazy affair, so think carefully before you decide to rent or buy a car. However, driving in other parts of the country, at least in daylight, isn't so bad. Having a car, or better still a 4WD, opens up entire areas of the country where public transport is non-existent or where it takes forever to get there by changing trains, buses and microbuses. Petrol is plentiful and cheap but not the best quality; and less available in rural areas. Go for lead-free when you see it or at least higher-octane super; a little more expensive but better for the environment. Driving is on the right hand side and the official speed limit outside towns is 90km/h and 100 km/h on four-lane highways such as the one between Cairo and Alexandria. Some roads have tolls and many have police checkpoints so always carry your identification and licence.

How do I avoid being ripped off?

Egypt can be notorious for this and many tourists, visitors and expatriates, are targeted. At the end of the day the scam is probably no great cost for you but a fortune for the enterprising local; but whatever the value, why be a victim? It is strongly advised that you acquaint yourself with the local currency, current exchange rates and the cost of living. Up to date practical guide books will give you an idea of what things cost from taxi rides in Cairo to felucca voyages in Aswan. If you know the costs and you have the local knowledge then you will not fall victim to the hawkers and scam artists who either charge you over the top rates for something that is 10 times less than his price, or recommend a hotel or activity who then charge you more to cover his commission. Do not be tempted and do not look for an easy way of arranging things; because you will pay for it.

Commuters

Many local people, particularly those who can afford it, are now venturing into the new suburbs of Cairo to escape the mayhem of the city. Schools in the Cairo area are either located in the city itself or in one of these newly developed areas that are self contained with respect to facilities and amenities like schools, medical centres, cafés, restaurants, shops and sporting facilities. Before you commit yourself to an acceptance of employment you need to establish the location of the school and the nature of the accommodation. Most employers try to accommodate teachers close to the school for the ease of commuting and to give a stress-free working life. To be able to walk to school or jump on a school bus for a few kilometres must be quite enticing indeed. There are a number of new developments like Al Rehab City, Mirage City, 6th of October City and the incredible new development, but a work in progress, Medinaty, not to mention more established areas like Heliopolis. All of these areas will have amenities preventing tiring weektime trips into Cairo which you can save for the weekend, when you can choose your time of travel. I know of Al Rehab City: this is a relatively new area with very modern facilities including a range of fast food (Pizza Hut and KFC) and other restaurants, shopping malls, a medical centre, a traditional contained souk and a huge sporting facility offering every activity of which you can think from boxing to swimming.