Places to Visit

"I discovered that the marvels of the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx have been degraded into commodities for an enormous tourist trade".

- Cecil Beaton 1942

The sole survivors from the ancient Seven Wonders of the World, the Pyramids are the planet's oldest tourist attraction. Built by father, son and grandson, they were already more than 2,500 years old at the time of the birth of Jesus Christ. But, even more than their age, the wonder of the Pyramids is in their age-old mysteries, like how exactly were they built? And what are they all about?

We know that they are massive tombs constructed on the orders of the pharaohs by vast teams of workers tens of thousands strong, although no corpse has ever been found inside. This is supported by the recently discovered pyramid builders' settlement complete with areas of large scale food production and medical facilities. Ongoing excavations at the Giza plateau are providing more and more evidence that the workers were not the slaves of Hollywood tradition (nor of alien origin), but a highly organised workforce of Egyptian farmers. When the Nile flooded this created an instant job creation scheme as the farmers redirected their energies (although they did not have much choice) to build the tombs of the pharaohs.

The Pyramids of Giza appear first as faint shadows on the shimmering horizon nestled behind the tacky buildings of Cairo's Pyramids Road; as you approach they loom magnificently, ancient monoliths, out of the city smog. And this is the first sad observation of these mighty structures; the run down outer suburbs of Cairo will soon one day overwhelm them to dilute their majestic presence. Despite their grand stature, up close, it is hard to take them in; their shape does not lend itself to ground-level viewing, as you are kept busy jostling for position amongst the tour groups and trying not to get in people's snapshots. Better to fend off the relentless persistence of the horse and camel merchants, avoid the hawkers selling tacky souvenirs and wander over the sand to the ridge that overlooks the Pyramids from the south. There, with a bit of peace and quiet to appreciate them, you get a truly awe-inspiring view of the magnificent monuments jutting out of the desert in perfect geometric harmony. Or, and I make my second sad observation, you can sit back and relax and take them all in with a pepperoni pizza and coke in the nearby Pizza Hut! It is believed that one tourist even ordered Sphinx delivery! I feel ashamed to reveal his nationality! What better way to view the Seventh Wonder of the World? Personally I prefer Pizza Express!

Why does the Sphinx have shiny white paws? Well this is a result of restoration to slow down the internal decay that is probably a result of pollution and rising ground water. The Sphinx is located at the bottom of the causeway to Khafre's pyramid, the Great Pyramid, and is the largest statue in the world. At one point, after Giza was abandoned, the Sphinx was buried up to its head in sand, and it was not until 1817 that modern excavation began to uncover it. It wasn't fully revealed until 1925. The Sphinx is missing a nose and mystery surrounds this loss. Could it have been one of Napoleon's cannonballs, or just a thousand years exposed to the harsh climatic elements whilst its body was buried in the sand?

Probably one of the better ways to explore the area is by horse. Avoid the unscrupulous camel owners who can charge you an arm and a leg if you are not a careful and hard negotiator, and head down to the horse stables (MG 358 3832 and AA 385 0531) near the coach park. They have well-kept horses and good mounts for experienced riders. Make sure you have a Pyramid site ticket first.

How to reach the Pyramids
There are a number of ways of reaching Giza from Cairo and the suburbs. The fastest way is by metro to the Giza stop which lies at the foot of Pyramids Road, from where you can catch a taxi. You can take a taxi from downtown which a few years ago cost around E£15 for a one-way journey. A comfortable way is by taking the No355/357 service, a big white bus (with CTA on the side) that runs from Heliopolis via Midan Tahrir, where it picks up beside the Egyptian Museum. There is no bus stop; just stand with the crowds and be ready to flag it down as it does not always stop. From the Ramses Hilton you can take the microbus; just ask for Haram and you will be pointed in the right direction.

Memphis (south of Cairo)

Although the city has almost completely vanished, Memphis was the capital of Egypt for most of the Pharaonic period while the southern city of Thebes (present day Luxor) acted as a ceremonial capital. Centuries of annual floods have inundated Memphis with Nile mud and many ancient buildings have long since been ploughed over so that today there are few signs of the grandeur of Memphis. In fact, its extremely difficult to imagine that a city once stood where there is now only a small museum and some statues in a garden. The museum, part of which is open-air, is built around a fallen colossal limestone statue of Ramses II.

How to reach Memphis
The tiny village is 24km south of Cairo and is very difficult to get to; the best way is by private car or as part of a guided tour. There are many other complicated ways costing next to nothing but taking forever; by train, boat and microbus; better to refer to a comprehensive guide book for transport details.

Abu Sir (south of Cairo)

Lying at the edge of the desert, surrounded by sand dunes, the pyramids of Abu Sir form part of the vast necropolis of Saqqara. Originally there were four Pharaonic pyramids but most of which exists today is badly worn; the pyramids lacking the geometric precision of their bigger, older brethren at Giza. There is the pyramids of Sahure, Niuserre, Neferirkare and Raneferet.

How to reach Abu Sir
Lying some distance off the main Saqqara road, there's no way to reach Abu Sir by public transport. The only way to visit is as part of an organised tour, in a taxi or by private car.

Saqqara (south of Cairo)

The site of Saqqara was originally one huge cemetery for the inhabitants of the ancient city of Memphis and because of its size it seems that other visitors are few and far between, apart from the organised tour groups who are rushed through in the mornings. There are 11 major pyramids in the area and hundreds of smaller tombs. With its vast size and huge collection of monuments and tombs there is too much at Saqqara to be seen in one visit. Try the following tour:

Enter through the hypostyle hall and gaze on the Step Pyramid, the world's oldest pyramid. Wander around Zoser's funerary complex, through the huge great south court, into the Houses of the North and South and in front of the eerie serdab (cellar) where you can stare into the stone eyes of Zoser. Continue through the ruins of the funerary temple and around the back of the Step Pyramid. Walk south along the hill above the western edge of the funerary complex and down the causeway of Unas, where you can visit some of the beautiful tombs dotted on either side or peer into the huge boat pits. Head over to the Pyramid of Teti to see the famous Pyramid Texts. Descend into the Serapeum and peer through the gloom and into the gigantic sarcophagi of the 25 huge Apis bulls that were entombed in this bizarre place. Walk over to the mastaba tomb of 5th dynasty father and son Ptahhotep and Akhethotep, with its beautiful painted reliefs of animals, battle scenes and the two men receiving offerings. If you still have energy, visit the wonderful Mastaba of Ti, overseer of the Abu Sir Pyramids and sun temples, with its fascinating tomb reliefs of daily life in the Old Kingdom that show people trading, building ships, milking cows and rescuing their livestock from crocodiles.

How to reach Saqqara
The area is 25km south of Cairo and although you can reach within 1.5km of the ticket office by public transport it is a very time consuming process. The best way is by guided tour or by taxi from Cairo, or by private car (if you have one). For the real adventurers amongst you the various guide books will take you through a complicated itinerary of buses and microbuses. It is possible and no doubt a lot of fun for the crazy expatriates amongst you.

Other attractions (south of Cairo)

I could go on forever so here are a few examples. There is Dahshur (with an impressive array of pyramids), Al-Fayoum Oasis (Egypt's largest oasis including Lake Qarun and Medinat Al-Fayoum), Wadi Rayyan (with its waterfall), Wadi Al-Hittan (with its fossilised skeletons of primitive whales), the Pyramid of Meidum (the first ever pyramid that was attempted to be built) and Qasr Qarun (with its ancient ruins of the town of Dionysus.).

Luxor (further south of Cairo)

Luxor is a place like no other on earth, a place where the grandeur of ancient Thebes sits comfortably alongside the modern town and its inhabitants. The sheer size and numbers of its wonderfully preserved monuments have made Luxor Egypt's greatest attraction after the Pyramids, often described as the world's largest open-air museum. If you have the patience to put up with hordes of sweaty tourists and the booming voices of their guides and the incessant harassment from vendors and street hawkers, Luxor will reward you with an amazing and unforgettable archeological experience, and what better way to begin and to get your bearings, than in the tranquil and still surroundings of a hot air balloon, providing awe-inspiring views of the mountainous tombs and the fertile River Nile snaking its way north to Cairo. It is quite startling to witness the contrast of green fertile pastures alongside the banks of the river to suddenly changing into arid lifeless desert terrain. There are two balloon companies Hod Hod Suleiman (370 116) and Balloons Over Egypt (376 515), but most trips are organised through hotels and tour companies.

The Temples of Karnak is a place that has been much written about and often painted; but of which no writing and no art can convey more than a dwarfed and pallid impression&The scale is too vast; the effect too tremendous; the sense of one's own dumbness, and littleness, and incapacity, too complete and crushing.

- Amelia Edwards, 19th century writer and artist

Karnak is more than a temple, it is a spectacular complex of sanctuaries, kiosks, pylons and obelisks, all dedicated to the Thebans and to the greater glory of Egypt's pharaohs. Everything here is on a gigantic scale. From the entrance you pass down the processional avenue of ramheaded sphinxes that originally flanked a canal connecting the temple to the Nile. From here we will leave you to the impressive knowledge of the tour guides and books. Do not forget the dazzling Hollywood style sound and light show in the evenings.

Other highlights in Luxor on the east bank include the Luxor Museum and the Luxor Temple.

The West Bank Most people get to the West Bank by sailing across the river, and then catch a taxi to the sights. You may even consider exploring by bicycle, donkey or camel, all of which are readily available. Arriving on the West Bank of Luxor you meet with one of the most striking vistas in Egypt. As you pass through the lush green fields, desert mountains dotted with brightly colored houses loom ahead. The massive pair of statues known as the Colossi of Memnon are the first monuments that most tourists see when they arrive on the West Bank. Rising about 18m from the plain, the faceless statues have a kept a lonely vigil on the changing landscape. On a barren hill, where the road from Deir al-Bahri to the Valley of the Kings meets the road from Setis temple, there is a domed house where Howard Carter lived during his search for Tutankhamun's tomb.

Valley of the Kings

Once called the Great Place or the Place of Truth, the canyon now known as the Valley of the Kings is at once a place of death for nothing grows on its steep, scorching cliffs and a majestic domain befitting the mighty pharaohs who once lay there in great stone sarcophagi, awaiting immortality. The isolated valley, behind Deir al-Bahri is dominated by the natural pyramid-shaped mountain peak of Al-Qurn (The Horn). It consists of two branches, the east and west valleys, with the former containing most of the royal burial sites. In all, some 62 tombs have been excavated in the valley, although not all belong to pharaohs. Not all the tombs are open to the public and there are always a few that are closed for renovation work. Each tomb has a number that represents the order in which it was discovered. No1 belongs to Ramses VII which has been open since Greek and Roman times and No62 belongs to the man himself Tutankhamun discovered in 1922 by Howard Carter. Once again we will leave you with the tour guides and books as there is too much information for this document; there are many tombs for you to explore (Ramses IV, Merneptah, Ramses II, Ramses III, Horemheb, Amenhotep II, Ramses I, Seti II, and many more) but don't expect to be rewarded with a magnificent burial site after you have paid the extortionate entrance fee to see the tomb of Tutankhamun; it is neither large nor impressive and bears all the signs of a rather hasty completion and inglorious burial.

Deir al-Bahri

From the tombs of Seti I and Ramses I you can continue southeast and hike over the hills to Deir al-Bahri; the walk takes about 45 minutes through an amazing lunar landscape. From the top, there are various views of Deir al Bahri, the Temple of Hatshepsut and excellent views across the plain towards the Nile. There are also donkeys available but to descend for further exploration you will need to buy a ticket, but sitting and looking at the views are free.

Rising out of the desert plain, in a series of terraces, the Temple of Hatshepsut merges with the sheer limestone cliffs of the eastern face of the Theban mountains as if Nature herself had built this extraordinary monument. The partly rock-cut, partly free standing structure is one of the finest monuments of ancient Egypt.

There is so much more to explore on the west bank. The Assasif Tombs, Tombs of the Nobles, the Ramesseum, the Workmen's Village and the tombs of the Valley of the Queens. But before we move on, a visit to Luxor is not complete without a look at New Gurna. For architecture buffs this town is a mud brick masterpiece.

There are many ways of getting around the area. Hotels, tour operators, local stables and cheeky hawkers can offer you rides on donkeys, horses and camels. A few years ago they cost about E£30 per person from 7am to lunchtime. You can try the Pharaoh's Stables (310 015). A sunset ride in the desert is an unforgettable experience.

One of the best things to do in Luxor in the late afternoon or early evening is to relax on board a felucca. Local feluccas cruise the river throughout the day and cost from E£30 to E£50 per boat per hour, depending on your bargaining skills. An enjoyable outing is the trip upriver to Banana Island. The tiny isle, dotted with palms, is about 5km from Luxor and the trip takes two to three hours and is best planned to catch the sunset over the Nile on the return journey.

Where does one eat and drink in Luxor? Once again the variety is immense from budget dining to five-star restaurants. One recommendation is the kushari dish which is a must try when you are in Egypt. The best place in town for this is Sayyida Zeinab and if you fancy a little nostalgia (if you are British) in the late afternoon head down to the King's Head Pub (371 249 Sharia Khaled ibn al-Walid) for a pint and toasted sandwiches and chips; they even serve a Sunday roast with real Yorkshire pudding on a ..errrr  Sunday! Other bars are the Old Winter Palace (380 422 Corniche el-Nil), Pub 2000 (370 076 off Sharia Khaled ibn al-Walid) and St Joseph Bar (381 707 St Joseph Hotel).

How to reach Luxor
EgyptAir flies daily between Cairo and Luxor and a one-way ticket costs less than E£500. A trip by bus takes 10-11 hours and it leaves at 7pm every day. You can also travel by train; berths in sleepers can be booked a few days in advance.

Aswan (south of Luxor)

On the way to Aswan there are many other places to check out, too numerous to consider in depth here, but a few examples include Esna (Temple of Khnum), Edfu (Temple of Horus), Silsila (Nile gorge), Kom Ombo (Temple of Kom Ombo) and Daraw (camel market).

Over the centuries Aswan, Egypt's southernmost city, has been a garrison town and frontier city, the gateway to Africa, a prosperous marketplace at the crossroads of the ancient caravan routes and, more recently, a popular winter resort. The modern town of Aswan lies on the east bank of the Nile, opposite Elephantine Island. The town is at the northern end of the First Nile Cataract, one of six rocky outcrops. Aswan is the perfect place for a break from the rigours of travelling in Egypt. Although its ancient temples and ruins are not as outstanding as others in the country, Aswan does have a few things to offer the traveller, one of which is the town's superb location on the river. The Nile is magically beautiful here as it flows down from the dams and around the gigantic granite boulders and palm-studded islands that protrude from the cascading rapids of the First Nile cataract. Aswan's corniche is one of the most attractive of the country's Nile-side boulevards. While you can visit Pharaonic, Graeco-Roman, Coptic, Islamic and modern monuments, a good museum, superb botanical gardens, the massive High Dam, Lake Nasser and one of the most fascinating souks outside Cairo, by far the best thing to do in Aswan is to sit by the Nile and watch the feluccas gliding by at sunset. The best time to visit Aswan is at winter, when the days are warm and dry, with an average temperature of 26C. In summer the temperature is around 38C to 45C, and it's too hot to do anything other than sit by a fan and swat flies or flop into a swimming pool. Check out the guide books for a variety of sights including the Nubian Museum (313 826), Fatimid Cemetery, the unfinished obelisks, the sculpture park, Elephantine Island, Kitchener's Island, Monastery of St Simeon and the Tomb of the Nobles.

Where does one stay in Aswan? As in Luxor there are numerous options to suit one's purse ranging from the cheap and cheerful camps and hostels (Municipal Camp Site / Youth Hostel 304 497) to the top end hotels like the New Cataract Hotel (316 002), the Basma Hotel (310 901), the Aswan Oberoi (314 667) and the Isis Hotel (324 744). There are low budget hotels (Rosewan Hotel 304 497 / Queen Hotel 326 069 / Yassin Hotel 317 109 / Noorhan Hotel 316 069 and more) and mid range hotels (Ramses Hotel 324 000 / Hathor Hotel 314 651 / Oscar Hotel 306 066 / Cleopatra Hotel 314 003).

How to reach Aswan
Probably the best ways are by air and train if you are travelling from Cairo.

Around Aswan

Here is a brief summary of some of the delights awaiting you around Aswan. First there is the mighty Aswan Dam. When it was constructed between 1898 and 1902 it was the largest of its kind in the world. It was built to regulate the flow of water along the Nile to help increase land available for cultivation to accommodate a growing population. Sehel Island is a destination for an extended felucca trip on this part of the Nile. The romantic and majestic aura surrounding the temple complex of Isis on the island of Philae has been luring pilgrims and now tourists for thousands of years. Then there is the High Dam 17km south of Aswan, and when it was completed the water that collected behind it became Lake Nasser, the world's largest artificial lake. Looking out over Lake Nasser's wide expanses of calm green-blue waters, it's hard to believe that it is a human-made creation. The contrast between this enormous body of water and the remote desert stretching away on all sides makes Lake Nasser a place of austere beauty. There are a number of temples in the vicinity including those of Kalabsha, Beit Al-Wali, Kertassi, Wadi as-Subua, Dakka, Maharraqa, Amada and Qasr Ibrim. Many of these temples have had to be relocated after the construction of the dam the photograph shows just how easy the country potentially destroyed priceless and irreplaceable artifacts!

Abu Simbel (south of Luxor)

The village of Abu Simbel lies 280km south of Aswan and only 40km north of the Sudanese border. A small settlement with breezeblock buildings and a few basic workers' cafés, there is little to keep you here other than the colossal temples for which it is famous. Few tourists linger more than a few hours, although there are four hotels that try to lure visitors for overnight stays. The notable temples are the Great Temple of Ramses II and the Temple of Hathor.

How to reach Abu Simbel
You can either fly from Aswan to take a bus or microbus as part of a police convoy.

The Western Desert (south-west of Cairo)

The Western Desert, a vast expanse that starts at the western banks of the Nile and continues well into Libya, is the desert of deserts. Covering a total of 2.8 million sq km, it is a world of desolation and beauty and one of the few places in Egypt where you can go for days at a time without seeing a soul. Five isolated but thriving oases dot this otherwise uninhabited expanse. Although the oases are attracting more and more travellers, their increased popularity has not diminished the adventure of exploring this remote region. The towns and villages are dotted with archeological sites that are easily accessible to most travellers and a safari into the open desert beyond is one of the last great trips that can be taken in Egypt. The ideal time to visit is in late autumn or early spring because summer temperatures can soar as high as 52C.

Kharga Oasis

Kharga, the largest and most developed of the oases, is situated in a desert depression about 30km wide and 200km long. Notable highlights of the area include the Kharga Museum of Antiquities, the Temple of Hibis, the Temple of an-Nadura, the Necropolis of al-Bagawat, the ruined Monastery of al-Kashef and the Palace of the Beautiful One in Baris. There are a number of campsites, hostels (Youth hostel 922 640) and hotels (Kharga Oasis Hotel 921 500, Waha Hotel 920 393, Pioneers Hotel 927 982, Hamad Allah Hotel 920 638) to name a few.

Dakhla Oasis

Dakhla, about 189km west of Kharga, was created from more than 600 natural springs and ponds. Its picturesque mud-brick villages, many built upon much older settlements, sit among impossibly lush fields and orchards. The oasis is home to about 70,000 people and produces rice, wheat, mangoes, oranges, olives, and dates, as well as apricots, the latter being dried then sold mainly during Ramadan. As they drive about on donkey carts and work the fields, farmers wear straw hats, giving the place a strange, Latin American air. Mut is the largest town in the oasis. The old city of Mut is often ignored by passing travellers. It is a labyrinth of mud-brick houses and winding lanes, which clings to the slopes of the hill leading to the old citadel. There are several hot sulphur pools around the town of Mut, but the easiest to reach is the official tourist spring 3km down the road to Al-Qasr from Mut. Bir al-Gebel (Mountain Spring) is a pleasant hot spring that can be reached via a turn off about 25km north of Mut. A few kilometres out past the bus station you can have a roll around in sand dunes said to have been there since Roman times. They are not the most spectacular of dunes, but are easy to reach for people without their own transport. Sunset camel rides out to the dunes can also be arranged. About 35km east of Mut you will find Balat, a town that has retained much of its medieval Islamic character. There are historical sites at Ain al-Asil and Qila al-Dabba. At Bashendi there are Roman tombs of Pasha Hindi and Kitanes. On the edge of lush vegetation at the foot of high limestone cliffs is the medieval town of Al-Qasr, a charming little place that reminds you what the other oasis towns must have been like before the Nile Valley development projects changed the face of the area. 3km west of town are the Al-Muzawaka Tombs. There are a number of hotels in the area: Gardens Hotel (821 577), Nassers Hotel (820 767), Fursan Hotel (821 343), Nugum Hotel (823 084) and more.

Farafra Oasis

The main town of the oasis is Qasar al-Farafra, named after the town's fort that still remains. Although the town is linked by a 300km paved road to Mut, the 2,900 people who live there are still quite isolated from the rest of the world. Many of the people are Bedouin and still adhere to some of the old-age traditions of their culture. There are more than 100 springs and wells around the oasis. The calm and simplicity of this place will enchant you, especially if you are coming from Cairo or Kharga. There is precious little to do but wander around town and its beautiful gardens then head out into the desert. A popular camping spot is next to Bir Satta, a sulphurous hot spring just 6km northwest of Qasr al-Farafra. You can also stay in the Al-Badawiyya Safari and Hotel (345 8524) a nerve centre for travellers heading out to the desert.

The desert between the Farafra and Bahariyya oases offers some of the most varied and amazing terrain in the Western Desert. Because the major sights are relatively easy to access the area is a favorite destination for safari outfits in Qasr al-Farafra and Bawiti.

The White Desert

This is an otherworldly region of blindingly white rock formations shaped by wind erosion. Beginning about 20km northeast of Farafra the white outcroppings take on surreal forms: you can make out ostriches, camels, hawks and other bizarre shapes. In a country with fewer natural and man-made sights, these would be a national monument on a par with the Grand Canyon in the USA. They are best viewed at sunrise or sunset, when the sun turns the white into chalk pink and orange, or under a full moon, which gives the landscape an eerie artic experience... About 50km further north there are two flat topped peaks known as the Twin Peaks, prominent landmarks surrounded by small rounded, bowl-like hills and a favorite destination for local tours. Just beyond here, the road climbs a steep escarpment known as Naqb as-Sillim, the main pass that leads in to and out of the Farafra depression and marks the end of the White Desert. A few kilometres further the desert floor becomes littered with quartz crystals. A closer look at the rock formation reveals they are largely made of crystal too, the most famous being the Crystal Mountain.

Ain Della

About 75km from Farafra, and surrounded by cliffs on the north and east, and dunes to the south and west, lies Ain Della, or the Spring of the Shade, a strategic and extremely important source of water for desert travellers since ancient times.

The Black Desert

About 50km south of Bawiti, the desert floor turns from beige to black, the beginning to the Black Desert, formed over a millennia as wind eroded the mountains and spread a fine black powder over the ground. It ends with small, black volcano shaped mountains, part of a fault that runs through Bahariyya Oasis. Gebel Gala Siwa is a pyramid-shaped mountain and Gebel az-Zuqaq is a mountain known for the red, yellow and orange streaks in its limestone base.

Bahariyya Oasis

This area is situated in a 2,000 sq km depression about 330km southwest of Cairo. There are several little villages spread throughout the oasis, but the main one, with a population of 30,000 is Bawiti. There are several attractions including the Oasis Heritage Museum, the hot and cold springs, the Temple of Alexander, various tombs and many surrounding mountains and ridges such as Gebel Dist, Gebel Mandisha, Gebel al-Ingleez and Gebel Maghrafa. Places to stay include the Paradise Hotel (802 600), Eden Garden Camp (802 345), New Oasis Hotel (803 030) and the International Health Center (802 322).

Siwa Oasis

The lush and productive Western Desert oasis of Siwa, famous throughout the region for its dates and olives, is 550km west of Cairo, near the Libyan border. It is 12km below sea level in a depression that stretches for 80km. The Siwa Oasis is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque and idyllic places in Egypt. Against an awesome backdrop of eroded hills and a sea of sand dunes, Siwa appears like the proverbial mirage. It's a wealth of green date palms shading mud brick villages that are connected by streams and springs and irrigated gardens. Siwa is a pleasant, sleepy little town consisting of little more than a market surrounding the main square, with roads leading off into the palm groves. Nearby there is Gebel al-Mawta (Mountain of the Dead) honeycombed with rocky tombs. Near the Temple of Amun there are hot and cold springs, the best one being Fatnas Spring. Bir Wahed is a hot spring out in the dunes on the edge of the Great Sand Sea. Other sights include the Palm Gardens (for date palms and orchards), Gebel Dakrur (for rheumatism sufferers) and Ain Qurayshat (for the biggest and cleanest spring in the oasis). One of the world's largest dune fields, the Great Sand Sea, straddles Egypt and Libya, containing some of the largest recorded sand dunes, including one that is 140 km long. In Siwa you can stay at the Yousef Hotel (460 2162), Badawi Hotel, Palm Trees Hotel (460 2204), Cleopatra Hotel (460 2148), Alexander Hotel (460 0512), Siwa Inn (460 2287) and many more.

Alexandria and the Mediterranean coast (north of Cairo)

Eat excellent grilled fish in an open-air restaurant; indulge in some strong coffee and cold Stella in a wonderful café or bar; visit the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa; explore Rosetta with its date palms, fishing boats and stunning old Turkish houses welcome to Alexandria and the Mediterranean coast.

On the north coast of Egypt, west of where the Rosetta branch of the Nile leaves the delta and where the desert meets the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean Sea, is the charming although somewhat jaded city of Alexandria, once the shining gem of the Hellenistic world. Alexandria is said to be the greatest historical city with least to show: founded by Alexander the Great, yet it bears no trace of him; site of one of the Wonders of the Ancient World, but there's barely a notable monument remaining; ruled by Cleopatra and a rival to Rome, it's now a provincial city, overcrowded with people but short on prestige. The reality of modern-day Alexandria can be a little disappointing, but to judge the city on first appearances is to sell it short. It's a city of nuances and shades, with plenty to be discovered if you are prepared to invest the time. Come here to kick back for a couple of days, hang out in atmospheric old watering holes, eat decent food and lose yourself in nostalgic meanderings.

Alexandria is a true waterfront city, nearly 20km long from east to west and about 3km wide. The focal point of the city is Midan Ramla and Midan Saad Zaghloul where you will find the central shopping area, airline offices, restaurants and most of the cheaper hotels. To the west are the older quarters of the city such as Anfushi, while in the other direction are newer districts stretching right out to Montazah with its palace and gardens, which marks the eastern extent of the city. The whole strip from Anfushi to Montazah is connected by the seafront corniche.

There are quite a few attractions to explore in Alexandria and to summarise they include the Roman Amphitheatre, the Graeco-Roman Museum, Pompey's Pillar and the Serapeum, the Catacombs of Kom ash-Shuqqafa, the city's souq district and Fort Qaitbey, that occupies the site of the much more famous Pharos Lighthouse. In the eastern suburbs there is the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, the Royal Jewellery Museum, the Chatby & Mustafa Kamal Necropolises, the Mahmoud Said Museum, and the Montazah Palace Gardens. As you can appreciate a tour and orientation of Alexandria is another document in itself for a later day, so please refer to the guide books for more details. At least you have an idea of what the city has to offer for a short break.

Where does one stay in Alexandria? There are many hotels, restaurants and bars in the city to suit all pockets. For the budget traveller there is the Youth Hostel (597 5459) and the many hotels in the Midan Ramal area like the New Hotel Welcome House (480 6402), Hotel Acropole (480 5980), Hyde Park Hotel (487 5666), Hotel Union (480 7312) and the Hotel Crillon (480 0330). For the big spenders there are top end places like the Cecil Hotel (Alexandria's most famous establishment 487 7173), the Helman Palestine (547 4033), the Sheraton Montazah (548 0550) and the Windsor Palace Hotel (480 8256). There are a huge variety of restaurants including the fast food joints of McDonald's and KFC. Some great cafés too including Pastroudis, the Brazilian Coffee Store and Baudrot. Indeed there are bars too such as Havana, Cap d'Or and Spitfire.

How to reach Alexandria
Superjet buses run to and from Cairo; the trip takes 2.5 hours. There is also the train that runs an hourly service from Cairo.

Abu Mina

This coastal town, 24km east of central Alexandria, is historically important for two major 18th century battles between the French and the English. During the Battle of the Nile in 1798, Admiral Nelson surprised and destroyed the French fleet in the bay at Abu Qir. However this is the place to go if you are into seafood; plenty of buses go from Alexandria, but best to catch the microbus from Masr Train Station.

Rosetta

This town is 65km east of Alexandria, where the western branch of the Nile empties into the Mediterranean, some 6,680km from its source at Lake Victoria. The area is renowned for its Ottoman Houses and of course the location of the Rosetta Stone now in the British Museum in London. Minibus is the best way to travel from Alexandria.

El Alamein

This small coastal village is 105km west of Alexandria and is famous as the scene of a decisive Allied victory over the Axis powers during WWII. There is a War Museum, a Commonwealth War Cemetery, and German and Italian War Memorials. Hotels include Hotel Atic (492 1340) and El Alamein Rest House (430 2785) and the town is best reached by bus from Alexandria in Sidi Gaber.

Sidi Abdel Rahman

The fine, white sandy beach and the turquoise of the Mediterranean makes this stunning place, 23km west of El Alamein, a real, and as yet unspoilt, coastal beauty spot, although the developers can't be far away. To reach, catch the bus that dropped you off in El Alamein.

Marsa Matruh

This large waterfront town is built around a charming bay of stunning turquoise waters and clean, white, sandy beaches. This is really just a place for the beach which can be very crowded in summer. There are other beaches away from the hustle and bustle but females need to be conscious of bikini sunbathing. There are a few places in which to stay including the Youth Hostel (493 2331), Ghazala Hotel (493 3519), Hotel Dareen (493 5607), Rommel House Hotel (493 5466), Miami Hotel (493 1400), Hotel Reem (493 3605), Hotel Beau Site (493 8555). You can travel to the town by air, train and bus from Cairo and by bus from Alexandria.

The Red Sea Coast (east of Cairo)

Plunge into the turquoise waters of the Red Sea and marvel at the famed coral and marine life; see where Christian monasticism got its start at the monasteries of St Anthony and St Paul; laze on the beach at one of Hurghada's huge seaside resorts; imagine yourself a spice trader in the narrow lanes of historic Al-Quseir, site of the last remaining Ottoman fortress on the coast; watch the sun set over the rocky mountains of the Eastern Desert welcome to the Red Sea Coast.

Egypt's Red Sea coast stretches for more than 800km from Suez in the north to the village of Bir Shalatein near the disputed border with Sudan in the south. Famed for its brilliant turquoise waters, splendid coral and exotic creatures of the deep, the Red Sea coast attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists annually. It's Egypt's most rapidly developing area, and more hotels and resorts have been constructed here in the last few years than anywhere else in the country.

To begin our journey along the coast which will take us through a number of popular coastal resorts, and end with a brief introduction to the many diving opportunities on the west coast and across on the Sinai Peninsula, we stop at Ain Sukhna which simply means Hot Spring. It is not much of a place except for its attractive coastline and clean beach and you can stay at the Hilton Ain Sukhhna Resort (290 500). 62km south there is the town of Zafarana and this is the place to stop (Sahara Inn Motel or Sol y Mar Zafarana) to see the Coptic Christian monasteries of St Anthony and St Paul, Egypt's oldest monasteries. Further south you approach Al-Gouna, a fully self-contained resort boasting hotels, an airport, an open air ampitheatre, a golf course and several shopping malls. This is a great place to laze on the beach or even catch a concert or sporting event. Hotels include Al-Khan Hotel (545 062), Dawar al-Umda (545 060) and Sheraton Miramar (545 606). Further south is the huge and ever developing town of Hurghada with over 100 resorts and hotels catering to sun seekers and diving enthusiasts. It is bold and brash; the town overrun with thousands of western and eastern package holiday tourists and the place is full of Russian dancers, fast food restaurants and shoddy hotels. However you are guaranteed sunny beaches, lovely warm waters and great snorkelling and diving opportunities a great cheap and cheerful place for a weekend away from Cairo. The best reefs for snorkelling are actually offshore, a boat ride away to the Giftun Islands. There are also great windsurfing opportunities in the area too. You can also paraglide, para-ski and waterski. Try a hot air balloon flight by calling Cast Ballooning Egypt (444 928) for a memorable trip across the desert, an experience that includes a jeep safari and breakfast. There are an incredible number of hotels, restaurants and bars; too numerous to highlight here but I am sure you will find a place to sleep and to savour a cold beer, if that suits your idea of fun for a weekend away. You can reach the resort by air and bus from Cairo.

Diving in the Red Sea (east of Cairo)

Marvel at the coral and the teeming fish life at Ras Mohammed National Park, one of the world's most famous marine parks; explore the remains of The Thistlegorm, bombed in WWII, then rediscovered by Jacques Cousteau and now one of the most sought after wreck-dives in the world; experience the strong currents, dramatic seascape and abundant fish life of the Straits of Tiran; visit the remote islands south of Berenice where the reefs are stunning, the coral lush and the pelagic fish plentiful.

From mountains of coral that rise from the sea bed to shallow reefs swarming with fish; from sheer drop-offs that descend to unknown depths to coral encrusted shipwrecks, the Red Sea is a diver's paradise. In 1989 an international panel of scientists and conservationists selected the northern portion of this 1,800km-long body of water as one of the Seven Underwater Wonders of the World.

Diving tends to be concentrated at the northern end of the Egyptian Red Sea. The most popular destinations are around the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, most famously the thin strip of land that juts out into the sea and forms Ras Mohammed National Park often called the jewel in the crown of the Red Sea. Another major diving area is the Straits of Tiran, which form the narrow entrance of the Gulf of Aqaba. The currents sweeping through the deep, narrow channel here allow coral to grow prolifically and attract all manner of marine life. The reefs further north along the Egyptian shores of the Gulf of Aqaba are also popular. On the western side of the Sinai Peninsula lie the Straits of Gubal, a series of coral pinnacles that lie just beneath the surface of the sea and are famous for snagging ships trying to navigate their way north to the Suez Canal. This is where you will find the majority of Egypt's shipwrecks. Heading south along the Red Sea coast the best reefs are found around the proliferation of offshore islands and reefs. Although most shore reefs near Hurghada have been damaged by uncontrolled tourist development, pristine dive sites further south can still be reached from the shore.

The Red Sea is teeming with more than 1,000 species of marine life and is an amazing spectacle of colour and form. Reef sharks, stingrays, turtles, dolphins, colourful corals, sponges, sea cucumbers and a multitude of molluscs all thrive in these waters. Most of the bewildering variety of fish species in the Red Sea, of which many are endemic, are closely associated with the coral reef, and live and breed in the reefs or nearby seagrass beds. These include grouper, parrotfish and snapper. Others, such as shark and barracuda, live in open waters and usually venture into the reefs to feed or breed. When snorkelling or diving, the sharks you're most likely to encounter include white or black-tipped reef sharks. Tiger sharks, and the huge, plankton-eating whale sharks, are generally found in deeper waters only. Shark attacks in the Red Sea are extremely rare, and there are no sea snakes here.

Reef protection. The natural wonders of the Red Sea parallel the splendours of Egypt's Pharaonic heritage, but care is needed if the delicate world of coral reefs and fish is not to be permanently damaged. Almost the entire Egyptian coastline in the Gulf of Aqaba is now a protectorate, as is the Red Sea from Hurghada south to Sudan.

Dive sites and clubs. There is a huge number of dive sites across the region. Here are a few examples: in the Dahab area there is Bells Wall, the Blue Hole, the Canyon, Eel Garden, the Huts, the Islands and Oasis. In the Sharm le-Sheikh & Na'ama Bay area there is Jackson Reef, Shark's Bay, Gordon Reef, the Tower, Temple, Ras Mohammed, and the Thistlegorm. In the Hurghada & Safaga area there is Shedwen Island, Fanadir, Fanous, Careless, Giftun Islands, and Panorama. In the south coast area there is Elphinstone, Shaab Sharm, Daedalus Reef, Dolphin Reef and St John's Reef. In the Southern Islands area there is Big Brother, Little Brother and Rocky Island.

As Egypt's Red Sea and Sinai coasts continue to develop at a break-neck speed, the number of dive clubs is mushrooming. Almost all of the large resorts in Sinai and along the Red Sea coast have a dive centre. There are also smaller places, some of which have been around for years and some of which are fly-by-night outfits set up by those wanting to cash in on the popularity of the area for divers. Given the huge choice, there is something to suit everyone. Some clubs are laid back and informal, others are slick and structured, but two considerations should be uppermost in your mind when choosing a club their attention to safety and to the protection of the environment. We are not dive experts and there are too many clubs to recommend, you will need to refer to the appropriate guide books, but we do offer some important advice below.

Sinai (east of Cairo)

Spend the night on the slopes of Mt Sinai where Moses received the Ten Commandments; discover hidden oases and mountain springs on a trek through the rugged Sinai desert; listen to the eerie silence and admire the subtle desert palette of one of Sinai's most famous rock formations, the Colored Canyon; combine desert and underwater adventure on a camel and dive safari with the help of the Bedouin of Dahab; lose yourself in another world diving among the underwater wonders of the Ras Mohammed National Park; and see how the pharaohs would go for turquoise at Serabit el-Khadem, a remote temple and ancient mine. Welcome to the Sinai Peninsula.

Sinai, a region of awesome and incredible beauty, has been a place of refuge, conflict and curiosity for thousands of years. Wedged between Africa and Asia, its northern coast is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, and its southern peninsula by the Red Sea Gulfs of Aqaba and Suez. Row upon row of barren, jagged, red-brown mountains fill the southern interior, surrounded by relentlessly dry, yet colorful, desert plains. From the palm-fringed coast and the dunes and swamps of the north to the white-sand beaches and superb coral reefs of the Red Sea, Sinai is full of contrasts.

Ras Mohammed National Park

About 20km before the town of Sharm el-Sheikh on the road from Al-Tor lies the headland of Ras Mohammed. Named by local fisherman for a cliff that resembles a man's profile, it is famous to divers the world over as the jewel in the crown of the Red Sea. A peninsula forming Sinai's most southern point, Ras Mohammed was declared a marine reserve in 1983 and became Egypt's first fully fledged national park in 1989. Only 12% of the park is accessible to visitors; and the park covers a total of 480 sq km of land and sea. It contains some of the most spectacular coral ecosystems in the world. There is a visitors' centre and numerous beaches including Khashaba Beach and Marsa Bareika, which is great for snorkelling. There is also the Main Beach and the Aqaba Beaches. Go out to the cliff top for the shark observatory. Yolanda Bay has a great beach for snorkelling and diving and for great bird watching head to the Mangrove Channel and Hidden Bay. You will need an entry permit and a car for getting around. You can also join a tour group from Sharm el-Sheikh.

Sharm El-Sheikh and Naama Bay

The southern coast of the Gulf of Aqaba, between Tiran Island and Ras Mohammed National Park at the tip of Sinai, features some of the world's most brilliant and amazing underwater scenery. The crystal-clear water, the rare and lovely reefs and the incredible variety of exotic fish darting in and out of the colourful coral have made this a snorkelling and scubadiving paradise, attracting people from all over the globe. However do not expect much above the waves as the resorts resemble a Las Vegas strip full of fast food, loud music, unimaginative architecture and hordes of tourists. There are many activities on land as well including camel rides, horse riding and quad biking. There are many places to stay, eat and drink, once again too numerous to mention, a wide variety to suit all pockets. You can fly to here from Cairo.

Dahab

A village beach resort 85km north of Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, is a popular resort for backpackers as it is very cheap to stay. There are tranquil beach side hotels and restaurants. There are over 40 dive clubs from which to choose and there is great snorkelling at the northern and southern ends of Mashraba, at the northern tip of Assalah at the Lighthouse Reef and the Eel Garden. There are land activities too you can hire local Bedouins for a camel trek or contact a hotel or travel agent for a jeep trek to the Coloured Canyon. There are quite a few places to stay ranging from cheap (Auski Camp 010 520 8936 / Penguin Camp 640 320 / Venus Camp) to mid range (Blue Beach Club 640 413 / Divers House 640 451 / Club Red Hotel 640 380 / Sphinx House 640 032 / Inmo Hotel 640 370 / Lagona Dahab Village 640 352) to top end (Novotel Holiday Village 640 301 / Hilton Dahab Resort 640 310). There is a string of places to eat at along the waterfront in Assalah with great competitive prices. Beer and billiards can be found at the Crazy Horse, there is a 3 hour happy hour from 5-8pm at the New Sphinx Bar and there is the Shipwreck Bar at the Nesima Resort. You can catch an East Delta bus from Sharm el-Sheikh to get to the resort.

Nuweiba

Strung out over a long distance, with no real centre and little ambience, Nuweiba can hardly be called Sinai's most beautiful resort. There is much tourist development to attract European tourists to the resort and its beaches, but there are advantages to coming here. It is probably the best place in Sinai to arrange camel and jeep trips into the dramatic mountains that line the coast here, including the Coloured Canyon, a very popular day trip from the resort. You can contact Abanoub Travel to arrange tours on 062 520 201. You may have heard of the Dolphin of Nuweiba, the story of a young mute Bedouin boy who befriended and communicated with a dolphin. There are few places from which to choose to stay including the Nuweiba Hilton Coral Resort (520 320), El Waha Tourism Village (500 420), Sultana Village (500 490) and more. You can reach here by bus from neighbouring resorts and Cairo.

From Nuweiba to Taba. Along the stunning coastline north of Nuweiba, especially near Taba, are many large, expensive tourist villages in various stages of completion; however you can escape this encroaching development by checking out the empty beaches nearby, backed by stunning blue waters and pockets of fringing reefs. There is Maagana Beach 8km north of Nuweiba, the Ras Shaitan rocky point, Mahash about 20km north with nice beaches and Pharaoh's Island just off the coast 7km short of Taba, the location of the Castle of Salah. A massive development 17km south of Taba, Taba Heights is a grouping of luxury hotels attempting to create a Red Sea Riviera. There are many places to stay and eat along the coast.

St Katherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai

There are 22 Greek Orthodox monks living in this ancient monastery at the foot of Mt Sinai near Al-Milga village. The monastic order was founded in the 4th century AD by the Roman empress Helena, who had a small chapel built beside what was believed to be the burning bush from which God spoke to Moses. The chapel is dedicated to St Katherine, the legendary martyr of Alexandria, who was tortured on a spiked wheel and then beheaded for her Christianity.

Although some archaeologists and historians dispute Mt Sinai's biblical claim to fame, it is revered by Christians, Muslims and Jews, all of whom believe that God delivered his Ten Commandments to Moses at its summit. At a height of 2,285m, Mt Sinai towers over St Katherine's Monastery. It is easy to climb and there are two well-defined routes to the summit: the camel trail and the Steps of Repentance. Mount Sinai is not, however, the mountain directly up the valley behind the monastery; that one is far lower! And from the top of Mount Sinai you can look across to the even higher summit of Gebel Katarina. The camel trail is the easier route; this takes about two hours. Usually there are at least 4 to 5 tea and coke stands, and where the trail meets the step you can find a place that serves breakfast. Sitting in the south of the mountain range of Sinai, St Katherine makes an ideal location to begin a mountain trek as short as half a day to one week, by camel or on foot. There are a number of routes that are recommended by local guides and books. There a few places to stay in the vicinity including Fox of the Desert Camp (470 344), Monastery Hostel (470 353), St Katherines Tourist Village (470 333), Catherine Plaza Hotel (470 289) and Morgenland Village (470 331).

Wadi Feiran

This long valley serves as the main drainage route for the entire high mountain into the Gulf of Suez. Sinai's largest oasis, it is lush and very beautiful, containing more than 12,000 date palms and Bedouin from all Sinai's tribes. Stone walls surround the date palms and the bustans, and the rocky mountains on each side of the wadi have subtly different colours that stand out at sunrise and sunset, making the landscape even more dramatic. The valley is also a good spot from which to trek into the surrounding mountains.

The Nile Delta (north of Cairo)

If you have an opportunity, it is well worth the effort to explore the lush, fan-shaped Delta of Egypt between Cairo and Alexandria. This is where the Nile divides into two branches to enter the Mediterranean at the old ports of Damietta and Rosetta. The Delta is also laced with several smaller tributaries and is reputedly one of the most fertile and, not surprisingly, most cultivated regions in the world. Service taxis and buses criss-cross the region from town to town, but if you want to explore this incredibly green countryside you will need to hire a car.

Tanis

Now if you are like me, a sad film buff, this name should leap off the page, as this is the resting place of the Lost Ark, an ancient city that was consumed by the desert; the wrath of God. It lies 70km north east of Zagazig; a place that many believe was the place where the Hebrews were persecuted by the Egyptians before fleeing through the Red Sea in search of the Promised Land. The site covers about 4 sq km.

Zagazig

This town is 80km north east of Cairo and is an easy day trip to see the ruins of Bubastis, one of the most ancient cities in Egypt.

Nile Barrages

The Nile Barrages and the city of Qanater lie 16km north of Cairo where the Nile splits into the eastern Damietta branch and the western Rosetta branch. On Fridays and on public holidays this is the favourite spot for picnicking locals who flock here by boat.

Birqash camel market

Egypt's largest camel market is held in Birqash about 35km northwest of Cairo on the edge of the western desert. The market is an easy half-day trip from Cairo but, like all Egypt's animal markets, it's not for animal lovers or the fainthearted. Hundreds of camels are sold here every day, most of which have been herded for hundreds of miles by camel herders. The camels are not treated well if they stand out of line and many look ready for slaughter after their harrowing journey.