Oman

Mountain Range From the moment you witness a dazzling sunrise across the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf to the dying embers of light flickering across the rugged mountain ranges at dusk, your day will be overwhelmed by a fusion of unique memorable experiences as you are awestruck by stunning landscapes, vibrant souks, an ancient culture, a rich marine life and a hospitable people. Journey with us through what can only be described as one of the most striking nations of the Middle East.

Oman Origins – Exploring the Past

FortSituated in the southeastern region of the Arabian Peninsula, the Sultanate of Oman is bordered by the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (676km) to the west, Yemen (288km) to the southwest and the United Arab Emirates (410km) to the north-west. Estimates of its total land area do vary but it is the third largest country in the peninsula. Mountain ranges (15% of the total land mass) and a narrow strip of coastal plains (3%) break up a topography that is predominantly made up of valleys and deserts (82%). Oman's stunning coastline, which is about 1,700km long, extends to the Gulf of Oman and the Arabian Sea as well as the Indian Ocean. The capital of Oman is Muscat.

A unique feature of the country is that it is split by the United Arab Emirates (UAE) to form the Musandam region at the furthest eastern point of the peninsula and a small enclave within the UAE; the village of Al Madha. The Musandam peninsula, known as the Norway of Arabia because of its majestic fjords, is an area of strategic importance, as it lies south of Iran controlling the main navigable stretch of the Straits of Hormuz, through which 90% of the world's crude oil passes. Off the coast there are several islands, the largest of which is Masirah Island in the southeast. It is another strategic location, an entry point from the Arabian Sea to the Gulf of Oman housing a military facility used by the United States of America.

Sand Dunes Oman's countryside is among the most stunning and varied in the Gulf region, featuring salt flats, lagoons, oases and stretches of sand and gravel plains dominated by stark mountains of rock and brownish-green ranges of ophiolites. The Hajar Mountains are the largest range, stretching from Musandam, through the UAE, to northern Oman, and rising to 3,000 meters at Jebel Shams. The countryside is crossed by wadis which are formed by the force of torrential water during the rainy season.

Oman is home to a large part of the seemingly endless Rub Al Khali (Empty Quarter) desert, and the Ramlat Al Wahaybah desert, home to the nomadic Bedouin tribes, where dunes can rise to a spectacular 200 metres. In contrast, the Dhofar region in the south is renowned for its green, tropical appearance and monsoon season with relatively high rainfall. It is one of the few places in the world where the frankincense trees grow; ancient trade in this resin features prominently in Oman's history.

Archaeological evidence suggests that an early form of civilization existed in Oman at least 5,000 years ago. The name Oman is said to come from the Arab tribes that migrated to the area from a place in Yemen called Uman. The Omanis were among the first Arabs to embrace Islam, back in 630AD, and Oman became an Ibadhi state ruled by an elected religious leader, the Imam.

Sailing Boat Oman's geographical position on some of the world's most important trade routes between Africa and Asia has given it a unique dimension. From the first to third centuries, the southern part of the country was one of the wealthiest regions in the world due to the ancient trade in Arabian horses and frankincense. Oman also became a prosperous seafaring nation sending dhows to Africa, India and the Far East.

The Portuguese arrived in force in 1507 with a view to protecting supply lines to the east and constraining Oman's trading power. However by 1650 they were driven out by Sultan bin Saif Al-Yaarubi marking Oman's independence. From the 1600s to the 1800s Oman vied with both Portugal and Britain for trade in the Gulf and the Indian Ocean and from 1624 to 1744 entered a period of great prosperity during which many of its forts were built. Tribal warfare then halted expansion and Persia took advantage by invading the coastal regions.

The history of Oman has always been a struggle for economic and political power between the interior (ruled by an Imam) and the coastal areas and Muscat (ruled by a Sultan). In 1744, Omani tribes elected Imam Ahmed bin Said, who then expelled Persian forces, united the country, restored Oman's fortunes and moved the capital to Muscat. He also adopted the title of Sultan which remains to this day.

The Omani empire reached the height of its power in the mid 19th century under Sayyid Said bin Sultan extending control all the way to Zanzibar and Mombassa, and to parts of Persia and India. He also established political links with France, Britain and the United States.

Sultan Said Bin Taimur came to power in 1932 enforcing his rule over the interior with the backing of Britain who needed stability to search for oil. However the ruler became increasingly isolated shielding his country from outside influence, resulting in most of 20th century life being as it was centuries before, despite the discovery of oil in 1962.

On 23 July 1970, a day celebrated as Renaissance Day, His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said assumed power and in the following year became a member of the United Nations and the Arab League. In 1970, Oman had only three primary schools, 10 kilometres of paved roads, two health centres, no infrastructure to speak of, and a per capita income of less than $50 a day. Nowadays it is peaceful, stable and relatively prosperous. The Sultan is a strong yet benign leader, drawing his people into the modern world but at the same time preserving much of the character and heritage of his country, thus making Oman a unique place to visit.

Oman Opportunities

The Sultanate's economic strategy is based on a series of five year plans. In Vision 2020, Oman aims to become a Newly Industrialised Economy and to double gross domestic product (GDP) per capita currently at $8,593. Oman is now a middle-income developing nation with the 18th most liberal economy in the world, free universal welfare services and impressive infrastructure so much different than the days in 1970.

Oil remains the biggest contributor to GDP but despite being endowed with modest oil reserves, Oman aims to create a viable non-oil economy by shifting economic emphasis to tourism, agriculture, fisheries, mining and light industry, while continuing aggressive development of natural gas to offset depleting oil production.

Fast-paced development is a regional phenomenon in the Middle East and Oman is no exception with many key projects in process. The most ambitious project must be Blue City (www.almadinaalzarqa.com) which will be a new resort city integrating tourism and residences, including a golf course, a tourist village, a heritage museum, a sports stadium, luxury hotels, a harbour for cruise ships and many shopping opportunities. Evason Hideaway & Spa at Zighy Bay (www.sixsenses.com) is set to be a luxury retreat within idyllic surroundings with dramatic mountains on one side and sandy beaches on the other, incorporating 85 pool villas and a private marina, and you can arrive by car, boat or even paraglide in! The Muscat Golf and Country Club will be the first green course complete with a state-of-the-art clubhouse and villas to buy. The Salalah Free Zone will offer attractive operational incentives for companies in the consumer product, transport, real estate and logistics sectors. The Wave is a staggering four zone entertainment, leisure and residential project including a golf course, hotels and spas, a marina, a shopping centre and a range of residential options. Both airports at Salalah and Seeb are also being upgraded.

Exploring the Landscape

We usually begin with an introduction relating to orientation and infrastructure to help you become acquainted with how everything works in a new country; however as Oman is such an exciting country to explore, let's dispense with the boring procedures and leave them until the end of the document. Let's get straight into the unique sights and sounds (we will even leave the capital Muscat until later) by beginning with its stunning desert and mountainous interior and offer you an interesting array of activity ideas of how to explore the countryside of Oman.

One of the most popular and must do experiences is a desert safari, driving up and down huge sand dunes in your own 4WD roller coaster, a thrilling and exhilarating ride of steep inclines, sudden drops and precarious maneouvres as the driver competes with soft sand and unpredictable terrain to give you a travel experience that you will never forget. Most tour operators organise a range of desert safari experiences and many begin with collection in mid afternoon to be driven inland towards the Hajar Mountains and then off-road through the lush green scenery and freshwater pools of Wadi Abayd. Then you will head for the undulating dunes of the nearby Abayd desert for some exciting dune driving. The hair-raising and stomach churning occasion is gratefully complemented by a relaxing evening in a Bedouin-style camp with a barbecue, camel rides, a superlative sunset and no doubt a beautiful and exotic belly dancer who takes great pleasure selecting a couple of unsuspecting people to get up close and personal to try out this mesmerising dancing experience!

Another thrilling 4WD experience is through the wadis. Natural streams run all year round in several wadis, transforming the dry, rocky landscape into fertile areas of lush greenery and clear rock pools that are often home to fish, frogs and other wildlife. The height and extent of Oman's mountain ranges surprise many visitors. Mountain safaris take you into the highest range, Jebel Akhdar, and up to Jebel Shams, which is Oman's highest peak at over 3,000m. On the way you will pass through towns such as Nizwa and remote villages set on terraces cut into the mountains. Some of the unforgettable sights you may see on the way are traditional mud-brick homes clinging to steep valley walls, clear streams carrying fresh water into deep pools and manmade irrigation systems called falaj. The top of Jebel Shams feels like the top of the world with the entire mountain range and the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon of Oman way below.

Many of these desert and mountain tours can be extended with a camp overnight.

Nature lovers and happy campers will love Oman, where you can pitch your tent just about anywhere for a night out under the stars. Many expatriates pack their 4WDs with camping gear and food and set out for a weekend, particularly during the winter months. There are many wadis (dry riverbeds) within two or three hours of Muscat and some of the more popular sites, such as Wadi Shabs and Wadi Tiwi are along the coastal road from Quiryat to Sur. As well as finding a campsite by yourself, Oman does have a number of official camping grounds with full amenities, and here are few excellent examples. Desert Camp (99 762 337 / www.desert-camp.com) lies about 220km from Muscat and is a good opportunity to get a taste of Omani hospitality. You can choose a Bedouin tent and enjoy dinner under the stars accompanied by traditional music. Various activities available in the camp include camel rides, desert cycles for kids, or even a desert crossing on foot with an experienced guide. Al Areesh Camp (99 328 858 / www.desert-discovery.com) is in the Wahiba Sands allowing a moment of tranquility in a back to nature environment while still enjoying a good level of luxury. The camp consists of 12 tents with camp-style beds and meals are prepared on-site and cooked over open fires. Operating out of the Nahar Farm in Ibra, 30 minutes from the famous Wahiba Sands, Empty Quarter Tours (99 387 654 / www.emptyquartertours.com) has a comfortable Bedouin-style camp. Accommodation is in fixed barasti (palm frond) shelters with modern conveniences including clean showers, toilets and a swimming pool surrounded by palm trees. Delicious Omani meals are served in a date palm garden and there are traditional performances by dancers and musicians.

The spectacular mountain scenery of Oman, with its miraculous staircases criss-crossing the mountains, is paradise for those who like exploring the country by foot. The climate in these higher areas is usually perfect, which can be a relief after the heat of the plains and coastal areas. The variety of scenery for walkers is breathtaking; the land's ancient geological history has created inspiring gorges, wadis, peaks, ridges and plateaux. There are many excellent routes that follow ancient Bedouin and Shihuh trails through the mountains. The terrain is incredible and you will find yourself marvelling at the skill of the hardy mountain people who pioneered these routes. The main mountain area is the Hajar range and the highest peak is Jebel Shams at just over 3,000m. There are numerous hikes in this region. One of the shorter, less rigorous, at four hours, is the Balcony Walk along Jebel Shams Plateau. Incredible canyon views and a trek through an abandoned village will delight everyone who summons up the energy to try it out. The spectacular Grand Canyon of Oman, in the Dhofar Mountain area near Salalah, offers a demanding but very beautiful walk around the rim. Be sure that on any hike you take sensible precautions as there is no mountain rescue service available.

Oman's caves provide a mystical underground world containing glittering stalagmites and stalactites, white gypsum crystal and underground lakes. These underground treasures are there for you to explore but remember to respect and preserve them, since they are part of Oman's heritage. The caving network in the Hajar Mountains is extensive and much of it is yet to be explored and mapped; indeed it is believed to be the second largest cave system in the world. The most famous cave in Oman, and the most stunning in terms of size, is the Majlis Al Jinn. Entering is not for the faint hearted as it starts with a 180m abseil from the entrance of the roof. Some of the cave exploration here is among the most hair-raising in the world and should only be attempted by experienced, fit cavers, preferably accompanied by someone who has traversed the caves before. However there is a tourist cave for the sightseers. Al Hoota Cave is located on the Al Hoota plateau on the southern slopes of Jabal Akhdar, at the foot of Jabal Shams. The Show Cave features an electrical train that runs through a tunnel alongside the main entrance, and to enhance the visitor experience, pathways and a lighted system have been installed to highlight the natural formations and varied hues and colours within the cave. Supporting a fragile ecosystem, the cave is unique in the fact that it is home to rare and endemic animal species. The main cave features an underground lake with natural ventilation, resulting in the phenomenon whereby blind, transparent fish thrive in large shoals. In the Dhofar Region you will find the Tawi Atayr & Wadi Darbat, a Natural Park, with stunning views of waterfalls, lakes, mountains and lush vegetation. There are also caves to explore that are rich in stalactites and stalagmites, and a wide range of wildlife.

Oman's interesting topography makes canyoning a popular activity here. It is not for the timid though as it's often challenging and treacherous and involves using various methods, such as abseiling, scrambling and swimming, to ascend or descend a canyon. There are some awesome treks in the country including Wadi Shab, Snake Canyon, Wadi Hajir, Wadi Haylayn and Wadi Qashah, each with its own challenge and beauty, and each with opportunities for canyoning. Although canyoning is an activity more commonly enjoyed by experienced groups, some tour companies do offer adventurous treks.

Avid mountain bikers will love pedalling along the tracks that wind their way through Oman's rocky mountains, the wadis, and along the coast. The Bawshar dunes are close to the city and offer some great rides. Riding in the mountains is adventurous and generally rocky, technical and challenging. There are many tracks to follow and the terrain is on a par with the classic trail areas of Utah and Arizona in the USA. Contact the Muscat Cycling Club (99 324 594).

Exploring the Coastline

Oman has a long coastline and many beautiful beaches and rocky coves. Qurm Beach in particular is a very popular, very long stretch of beach that spreads from the Crowne Plaza to Azaiba and beyond. Most of the beaches are public, although the five-star hotels (such as the Chedi and the Al Bustan Palace Hotel) have their own private beaches. Azaiba or Aviation Beach is a long stretch backed by dense bushes that act as a good windbreak; it is also a popular camping spot. Access is mainly by 4WD but a short walk will get you there if you have a car. Not good for snorkelling but great for windsurfing. The Beach Promenade stretches from the Hyatt Regency Muscat to the Intercontinental Hotel and becomes a lively spot before sunset with walkers, joggers, jet skiers, barbecuers and footballers! The Majan Beach at Qurm Heights is small and quiet and is ideal for snorkellers due to its superb coral reefs. On good days you can see parrot fish, rays and turtles. There a number of exclusive beach clubs to join or use for the day including the Beach and Country Club (Al Bustan 24 799 666), the Cliff Club (Crowne Plaza 24 560 100), the Club Olympus Fitness Centre (Grand Hyatt 24 641 155), the Palm Beach Club (Hotel Intercontinental 24 680 000) and the Sheraton Resort Health Club (Sheraton Resort 24 605 945).

There are many opportunities to explore the coastline from the water. Many tour operators can organise cruises by dhow. Bahwan Travel Agencies (www.bahwantravels.com / 24 704 455) is a recommended agency. Others include Eihab Travels LLC (www.omanvalueholidays.com / 24 702 231), Gulf Ventures Oman (www.gulfventures.ae / 24 700 363), Mark Tours (www.marktoursoman.com / 24 562 444), Treasure Tours Land & Sea Adventure (www.treasureoman.com / 99 349 399), Marina Bander Al Rowdha Sea Tours (www.marinaoman.com / 99 368 808) and many more. Indeed these agencies will also provide any adventure package that you are seeking.

Canoeing and kayaking is a great way of exploring a fantastic coastline that is full of inlets and sheltered bays, many of which have isolated beaches that make for excellent picnic stops. Paddling allows you access to otherwise hidden places of natural beauty and its a good way to appreciate the country's abundant bird and marine life. Adventurous canoeists with sea-going canoes can tour the Musandam peninsula, where you will see some spectacular rocky coastlines with fjord-like inlets and towering cliffs some of which reach heights of 1,000m. The Muscat Diving & Adventure Centre (www.holiday-in- oman.com / 24 485 663) hires out single and double sea kayaks or you can take the family out in a glass bottom canoe.

Sailing off the coast of Muscat is a wonderful experience, both in winter when temperatures are perfect for watersports and in the summer when it offers a great escape from the scorching heat inland. Unfortunately much of the club sailing in and around Muscat is closed to outsiders and the facilities are limited to employees of particular companies. You can try Arabian Sea Safaris (24 693 223) and Muscat Diving and Adventure Centre (24 485 663).

Big game fishing is a must during your time in the Middle East; the season from October to April is best. The most common big game fish is yellowfin tuna. Sailfish dominate the waters off Muscat during September and October and it is thought that they migrate through the region on their way to the Arabian Gulf for breeding. Black marlin sometimes travels into the coastal waters off Muscat and you can allegedly hunt marlin off the coastal area off Ras Al Hadd. The team at Arabian Sea Safaris is dedicated to arranging memorable fishing trips for you in their luxurious, fast and comfortable boats, which are rigged with a shaded seating area, a fish finder and outriggers. There is Gulf Leisure (99 819 006) and Sidbad Sea Tours (24 737 885) also.

Oman offers all year diving to explore a long coastline and a variety of underwater treasures coral reefs and ship wrecks provide a multitude of dwellings for an array of marine life. While you are underwater you will see turtles, cuttlefish, sting rays, moray eels and lots more. While Oman's waters suit novice and advanced divers alike, experienced divers with a penchant for more adventure will find cave diving a unique experience. Night dives are very popular and provide the opportunity to see many nocturnal creatures. The phosphorescence in Oman's waters is more visible after dark and this green-blue substance, released by plankton as a result of chemical reactions from their vigorous movements, makes for an amazing underwater display. Here are some example dive sites: Fahal Island, located in Muscat's Qurm region, offers isolated reefs, a swim through cave and artificial reef balls. You will see angelfish, stingrays and friendly sharks. Non-divers will find good snorkelling on the western side of the island. Bander Khayran, located near Muscat, consists of a small fjord system with inlets, offering diverse and beautiful corals. The Al-Munassir Naval Shipwreck located nearby was sunk on purpose to create an artificial reef. The Daymaniyat Islands consist of 9 islands and are a national nature reserve with an abundance of coral and marine life. There are many dive clubs from which to choose including Arabian Sea Adventures (24 693 223), Gulf Leisure (99 819 006), Moon Light Diving Centre (99 317 700), Muscat Diving & Adventure Centre (24 485 663) and others.

Exploring the Wildlife

One of the major attractions in Oman is a trip to see the nestling turtles. Watching these huge creatures lumber up the beach to lay their eggs, then making their way back into the sea is to see nature at its most miraculous. Turtle nesting sites on the coast have been recorded on over 275 beaches, from the Mussandam in the north to near the border with Yemen in the south. Five out of seven recognised species of marine turtle are found in Oman's water, while the green turtle, the loggerhead, hawksbill and olive ridley are known to come ashore and nest. Turtles face many threats to their survival, not least being caught in fishing nets and having their nesting sites destroyed my man. Green turtles are estimated to lay up to 60,000 egg clutches each year in Oman; the effort of 20,000 female turtles. While they nest all along the coast, the majority of nest sites are along a 50km stretch of coastline around Ras Al Hadd (the most eastern point of the Arabian Peninsula). Here, the government has set up a reserve to allow the public to view the amazing spectacle of nesting females and newborn hatchlings. The area has been limited to the beaches at Ras Al Jinz, with access to the other beaches being prohibited. To visit the turtle reserve at Ras Al Jinz you must get a permit; and this can be obtained at the main gate. It is advisable to book in advance as places are limited. You will need to provide your personal information to receive a permit that will allow you to use the camp site too. A few kilometres from Ras Al Hadd, the Turtle Beach Resort (25 540 068 / www.surtoursonline.com) offers no-nonsense accommodation and facilities, as well as varied activities and all at reasonable prices. Guest rooms consist of 22 traditional barasti huts, which are small and basic but perfect for rolling out of bed straight onto the beach. There is also a large restaurant built in the shape of an old boat. The big attraction of course is the turtle watching not to mention dolphin and bird watching, snorkelling and diving, and dhow cruises in their own vessel.

The next huge fauna attraction in Oman are the dolphins and whales that frequent the warm off-shore waters. Indeed there are more than 20 species either living or passing through the seas of Oman. Although no tour operator can guarantee a sighting of these beautiful creatures, the odds are definitely high that you will get to see a school of playful dolphins swimming and showing off alongside your boat. Whales are not so frequently seen as these gentle giants travel in smaller groups and stay under the surface for a lot longer. Early mornings and evenings are the best time for whale sightings. There are many tour companies that offer excursions including Arabian Sea Safaris (24 693 223 / www.arabianseasafaris.com), who also provide a hydrophone, Gulf Leisure (99 819 006 / www.gulfleisure.com) who have a glass-bottom boat and the Muscat Diving and Adventure Center (24 485 663 / www.holiday-in-oman.com).

One of the most unique animals in Oman is the Arabian Oryx. There is an Arabian Oryx Sanctuary located in the isolated area of Juddat Al Harasis, the home of Arabia's last true nomads. The environmental resources in this area (flat plains, sand dunes, high hills and rocky slopes) support a unique desert ecosystem that benefits diverse species of flora and fauna. The Arabian Oryx is a medium-sized antelope that is well adapted to its desert existence, particularly because it has the capacity to conserve water. Unfortunately, wild Oryx died out in 1972, but thanks to the efforts of HM Sultan Qaboos, the first Oryx from a captive herd was successfully released into the wild. An entry permit for the reserve is available from the Office of the Advisor for Conservation of the Environment, Diwan of Royal Court (24 693 536). To get there from Muscat, follow the main Salalah highway about 500km to Hayma, and then follow the Duqm graded road to the Habab Junction. Head north on a secondary graded road for a further 23km, and then head due east following a desert track for another 23km. It is recommended that you travel in a convoy with at least two 4WD vehicles.

Camel racing is a popular traditional sport and you should not miss the chance to see it up close. The camels are bred specifically for the track and it is still Bedouin families that raise and train them. The racing season runs from August to April, and races are held mainly on Fridays and public holidays, during the winter months. Races start at around 6am and continue until 9am, so you may have to sacrifice a lie-in. Announcements for camel races appear mostly in the Arabic newspapers, but if you are keen to go you can find out the details from a tour operator. Race tracks are found all over the country, including Seeb, the main location, in the north and Salalah in the south.

Bullfighting, unlike the Spanish version, is bloodless and the animals suffer little or no injury. This is not a gory sport, but rather a contest of strength between two powerful animals. The Brahmin bulls used in fighting are often pampered family pets. At the beginning of the fight, two bulls of similar size are led into the centre of the ring to lock horns for battle. The fight is over when the weaker of the two either gives up and runs away, or is forced out of the ring. Each fight lasts for just a few minutes and usually the worst injury suffered is a bruised ego on the part of both the losing bull and its owner! There is no prize money. This historical form of entertainment is loved by Omanis, and you will find that half the fun is watching the locals cheering for their favourite bull, and trying to recapture it at the end of the fight. Bullfights are held in several places along the Batinah coastline, usually on Friday afternoons at around 4.30pm. Barka and Seeb are the two main bullfighting sites, and a smaller ring is located in Al Sawadi. There is also a well-known bullfighting ring in Sohar. Entrance is free and visitors are welcome. Fights are not held during the hot summer months or during Ramadan.

The Ostrich Breeding Farm in Barka is surprisingly interesting. Visitors can see the 100 adult birds or their eggs being incubated and also chicks between February and June. The farm started in 1993 when the eggs were imported from South Africa. They were the first ostriches to have been hatched in Oman since early last century when the birds became extinct in this region. The ostrich is farmed for a variety of reasons and the aim of the farm is to sustain a 300-bird breeding group to meet the ever-increasing demands for healthy meat, fine leather and exquisite feathers. Ostrich meat is considered an excellent alternative to beef, since it is low in cholesterol, but has a very similar consistency and texture. The farm is also home to 30 crocodiles. Entrance to the farm costs 500 baisas per adult and 300 baisas per child and the timings are 7am to 12pm and 3pm to 6pm, seven days a week. To get there, turn on to Nakhal Road from the Barka roundabout, and after 4km you'll see the Majan Water Factory on the right. Turn right into the private road just before the factory, and the ostrich farm is first on the left.

Wolves can be seen, if you are very lucky, along with gazelles, wildcats and foxes, in the As Saleel Natural Park in Al Kamil Al Wafi which is approximately 55km south-west of Sur. It is divided into three vegetation areas: alluvial plain covered with acacia woodland, wadis in the higher mountains, and sparsely vegetated hills and rocky outcrops forming the northern boundaries. These zones provide really good habitats for these animals and have been designated for the future development of wildlife education and tourism. Unfortunately restricted access in the past has made the animals quite shy, so a visit to the park is no guarantee of a sighting.

And there are leopards too, but will you actually see one? The immense Jebel Samhan Nature Reserve is in Dhofar and stretches from Marbat in the south to Shuwimiya in the north-east. The limestone highlands, scalloped mountain peaks, wadis and canyons, and the 1,500m escarpment overlooking foothills and the coastal plain between Marbat and Sadh provide ideal habitat for the last known wild population of Arabian leopard. Other wildlife present in the area includes Nubian ibex, Arabian gazelle, striped hyenas, caracal, wild cats, foxes and wolves. Whales can sometimes be seen along the coast between Hadbin and Shuwaymiya. Green and loggerhead turtles nest on the sandy beaches, and the adjacent cliffs provide a nesting place for migrating birds. To get there, turn left at the signpost marked Tawi Atayr (32km before you reach Taqah). In Tawi Atayr, turn left following the signpost for Khis Adeen. Turn right after 12km, and then drive along the graded road for about 66km, at which point you will reach the plateau on top of the Jebel Samhan.

Back to the tamer animals, you can trek with a donkey along Oman's fairly new hiking trails in the spectacular Hajar Mountains. Donkeys can do all the hard work like carrying your luggage, freeing you up to enjoy the views. The trails take you into remote areas of the mountains, near the village of Misfat Al Abriyeen where you can sleep under the stars, eat traditional food and get into the local culture. Trips can be custom designed, depending on your requirements. Call 99 348 440 or catch the website www.trekkingoman.com.

Horse riding is very popular too. The Al Fursan Stable (99 386 978) in Al Qurm caters for riders of all ages and levels. In addition to riding and showjumping lessons given by their qualified trainers, they also offer pleasure trips to Qurm Garden, Qurm Nature Reserve, the Creek, and the breathtaking beach in Shati Al Qurm, all accompanied by a guide. Located in the beautiful Qurm Park, The Qurm Equestrian School (99 339 222) is open all hours and teaches everyone from beginners to advanced riders.

Oman has a good variety of birds, thanks to its varied landscapes and habitats from lush green slopes, open seas and beaches, to the tidal mudflats, coastal lagoons and arid desert plains. Oman also lies on the migration path for thousands of exotic birds doing the long haul flight between Asia and Africa. The beaches and lagoons along the coastline are good places to spot a rich variety of marine birdlife from storks and herons to flamingoes and ducks. For a detailed introduction to the bird life in Oman, the Bird watching Guide in Oman is invaluable or check out the website www.birdsoman.com. You can also contact the Oman Bird Group on 24 695 498. The Muscat Diving & Adventure Centre and Arabian Sea Safaris offer birding tours.

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