History and Culture

The mud brick and stone architecture of Oman's many forts is a constant reminder of the country's past. Whether you travel the interior, the coast, or the mountains, you are sure to happen across the remains of a fort, each with its own story to tell of Oman's defensive history. The Oman government takes great care of these national treasures and many of the forts are either heavily restored or in the process of restoration, sometimes against the wishes of archaeologists who would rather see the forts in their original state. While forts were built as structures of military defence, they also served as points of convergence for political, social and community activity, so some boast palatial luxurious interiors hidden behind their stark exteriors. To check if a fort is open consult the website www.mnhc.gov.om. Here are few of the more popular sites.

The vast and rambling Barka Castle is 800 years old and was originally built for Imam Ahmed bin Said. It was fully restored in 1984. Entrance to the fort is free and though there is no guide, you can spend a fascinating two hours wandering around the fort's towers, prisons and prayer rooms. The towers offer excellent views of the surrounding area and out to sea.

Nakhal Fort, 30 km inland from Barka and about 100km from Muscat, is an imposing structure set on a hill, and if you climb to the top of the watchtowers you will be rewarded with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and town.

Bilad Fort just inland from Sur on the road to Muscat, was built around 1800AD to defend the area from attacks staged by tribes from the interior, and is based around a central courtyard with watchtowers in each corner. The fort is surrounded by lush date palm plantations and makes a pleasant day out.

Jabrin Castle is almost 220km southwest of Muscat, near Bahla and Nizwa; it is large and imposing dominating the surrounding plain. It was built in the 1700s as a palace and later converted into a fort. The fort is open daily and admission is free. To reach it, take the Ibri road from Nizwa for about 45km and turn right at the signpost for Jabrin and after about 4km turn right at the small roundabout.

The Bahla Fort, nearby, situated on Balhool Mountain, is included in Unesco's list of world heritage sites and is currently undergoing careful and extensive restoration. In the area around the fort you can wander through deserted mud-brick villages, the largest of which is Al Aqar.

Khasab Castle in Khasab, the capital of the Musandam region, was built in the 1600s by Portuguese invaders as a stronghold in Khasab Bay. There is a small gift shop inside the castle to which entrance is free. The castle is open from 7.30am to 2.30pm Saturday to Wednesday.

Kumzan Fort is just outside Khasab but there is very little left of it except for two watchtowers. You could combine a visit to this fort with a trip to the nearby village of Tawi, where there are prehistoric rock carvings of warriors, boats and animals.

Sohar Fort is one of the largest in Oman which houses a great museum detailing the archaeological, geological and anthropological history of Sohar. From the top floor of the museum there are steps to the tower's roof where you'll have incredible panoramic views over plantations, across the mosque to the mountains or out to sea. Admission is 500 baisas and it is open from 8am to 1pm Saturday to Wednesday and from 9am to 1pm Thursday and Friday. To get there, take the city centre exit off the Muscat-Dubai highway, and after about 2km turn right at the second roundabout.

The main fort in Sur, Sunaysilah Fort, overlooks the town and offers commanding views of the area and the coastline. It is about 300 years old and was restored in 1989. The fort is open from Sunday to Thursday between 8.30am and 2.30pm and admission costs 500 baisas. You will need a permit from the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage in Muscat. Jalili Fort & Mirani Fort flank the sultan's palace on the waterfront, overlooking Muscat Bay. It is difficult to enter these forts due to their proximity to Alam Palace, although special permits can be obtained to visit Jalili Fort. Mutrah Fort is one of the few Portuguese forts left in the country. It was built in about 1600AD on a small outcrop of rock overlooking the corniche and harbour in such a position as to neatly control the harbour trade. As it is still used by the authorities it is rarely open to visitors. There are many other forts to explore throughout the country.

The Oman government plays an active role in preserving the country's history, and museums are an important way of doing this. You can spend hours learning about the achievements of Oman's ancestors, most of which are impressive considering the harsh circumstances they lived in, and in the process you'll gain valuable insight into the history of life in each specific area. Outside Muscat there are only a few museums, but those that do exist make interesting excursions for history fans. Entrance to museums is often very little and you will generally find information on exhibits both in English and Arabic. Museums within the main areas of Muscat are as follows. There is the Children's Museum (24 605 368 / near Qurm National Park) where kids of all ages can enjoy the interactive science exhibits. The Omani French Museum (24 736 613 / As Saidyah Road) celebrates the close ties between France and Oman over the past few centuries. The National Museum (24 701 289 / Way 3123) exhibits a range of Omani culture from scale-built dhows to coffee pots. Entrance is 500 baisas and it is open from 9am to 1pm and from 5pm to 7pm. The Sultan's Armed Forces Museum (24 312 654 / Bait Al Falaj Fort) is a showcase of Oman's military history. The Natural History Museum (24 641 510 / within Ministry of National Heritage & Culture) has a fascinating collection of exhibits relating to Oman's wildlife and the separate whale hall should not be missed. The Omani Museum (24 600 946 / Way 1566) sits on top of Information Hill and is almost worth visiting for the view alone. It is run by the Ministry of Information and although fairly small it offers very informative details of local archeology and artifacts, not to mention fine exhibits of Omani culture and history.

There are many archaeological excavations in Oman, mainly tombs that were used by families for collective burials over several generations. In some cases, archaeologists have found the remains of more than a hundred people buried in one tomb. It is only recently that these Oman tombs have been discovered by the outside world, although of course local people have always known their whereabouts and had their own stories about their origin. There are a number of sites around the country to explore. The Bat and Al Ayn Tombs in Bahla date back to the third millennium BC and is the second site to be listed as a Unesco World Heritage site. In between Bahla and Ibri on Route 21 there are two turnoffs signposted to Amiah and Al Ayn and in the distance you will see Jebel Misht forming a dramatic backdrop with its lopsided, triangular peak. Near the village of Al Ayn you'll find the best examples of beehive tombs. There is also a burial site of over 100 tombs 1.5km north of Bat, close by. The Shir Tombs in the Eastern Hajars were discovered in the 1990s and although they are 4,500 years old they are in almost pristine condition. Unfortunately they are only accessible by 4WD with the aid of a GPS system. Follow Route 23 to Ibra, and then turn left to Wadi Naam, after 16km turn right into the wadi just before An Niba palm plantation, then after 32km two tracks come together leading to the Eastern Hajars. Follow this track for 22km to a junction turning right and here you start climbing up to an altitude of 1,700m over a distance of 22km with some steep gradients. Descending on the eastern side guarantees a spectacular scenery as you drive towards Fins on the coast with the Gulf of Oman as a backdrop. The Halban Tombs of Barka are situated on an elevated coastal terrace at the edge of the Batinah coastal plain and the ophiolites hills, just at the back of the small Halban oasis, an easy drive of 80km from Muscat. In the early 1990s, the discovery of the Lost City of Ubar made international headlines, a desert outpost that was consumed by sand by the wrath of Allah as punishment for the sinful and affluent lifestyle of the people. However it appears that a limestone cavern collapsed beneath the city, a trading post for frankincense. Ubar is in the Shishr area, about 85km north-east of Thumrayt in southern Oman.

Culture is carved by religion and what better way to explore the Islamic traditions than a trip to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, the grandeur of which strikes you as you drive along Sultan Qaboos Road, and it is even more magnificent on the inside! This beautiful example of Islamic architecture provides a wonderful insight into the cultural heritage of Oman. Apart from being a place of worship, this huge mosque is a centre for scholars and houses an Islamic reference library.